- A travelogue by Strider
I’ve seen the Grand Canyon several times from the South Rim now and ever since the first time I set my eyes on this spectacle of nature, the desire to plunge down to its bottom and explore its hidden secrets burned strong within me.
And so it came to pass, at the crack of dawn…one fine day, I took the plunge.
I’d heard about its towering canyon walls and the deathly silence broken by the roar of the river deep below and the gurgle of its creeks and streams. I’d heard about the fiery heat in the unforgiving inner canyon and the cool shade that some patches of trees offers. I’d heard about the wild life and the flora and the suspension bridges right at the bottom, the winding and tiresome trails and a thousand other bits and pieces of what until a couple of hundred years back was called the – Great Unknown!
But nothing could prepare me for the experience I had…as I spent three days in the canyon…hiking down to the bottom and coming back up. Every step and every bend of the trail had a new sight to offer!
Joining me were my two of my office buddies – Abhishek and Nitin and Nitin’s better half – Stuti.
We started off down the South Kaibab Trail which is about 7 miles in length and is the shortest trip down from the South Rim to the Colorado river.
It is however a steep trail but offers some great views of the canyon. The early start ensured we beat the sun for most of the hike – this trail has no shade what so ever nor does it have any water – which meant we had to carry enough to last all the way down.
The trail offered stunning vistas of the canyon, especially at the O’Neill butte and at Skeleton Point, but nothing can prepare you for your first sight of the inner gorge!
After about four hours of tiring hike, I caught the first sight of the river and soon I could hear its roar…and then I saw the suspension bridge way down below!
The last stretch after the Tip-Off was a steep descent and by then the sun was out in full glory too – which meant we had to take more breaks in the shade of rocks and shrubs while munching on trail bars and apples. To add to it, all of us hardly had any sleep the previous night – courtesy some poor foresight of not carrying extra sleeping bags. The ones we had did not suffice for the cold weather at the Rim and we had spent most of the night shivering without sleep!
After close to six hours we finally reached the end of the trail where a small tunnel led out to the Kaibab Suspension Bridge (also referred to as Black Bridge).
This is a bridge for both foot travelers and mules.
We crossed the bridge with the swift flowing Colorado beneath us. To the left stretched the other - Silver suspension bridge (a foot bridge) spanning the river and connecting to the River Trail and then the Bright Angel Trail.
The river - after Glen Canyon Dam was built upstream - is usually green and clear (as I’d observed on several occasions from the Rim and at Desert View). But historically the river was a raging reddish-brown torrent carrying tons of mud and silt down its tumultuous journey. In fact the original name coined by early Spanish explorers – Rio Colorado was after the color of the water. The Dams that came up in last few decades have of course changed it all. So it was indeed, a pleasant surprise to find the river - brown when we got there! We were to learn later that rains upstream over the last few days had allowed the river to show signs of its earlier glory – we just felt lucky to see it so!
After crossing over we headed up to the Bright Angel Campground. Fatigue was catching up fast owing to the long hike and lack of sleep. The campsite was laid out on one side of the Bright Angel creek in the shade of cottonwood trees and we were lucky to find a site right next to the creek! After pitching tents and cooking up some chow we slept late into the afternoon.
The evening involved a pleasant walk up to Phantom Ranch – a lodge with some cabins, dorms and a canteen that was built in early nineteen twenties. The place is half a mile from the camp ground and scores of cottonwood trees dot the whole area – a truly charming place.
We attended a Ranger program about the Canyon’s history and its first real explorer – John Wesley Powell. Later we headed to the Canteen for snacks and coffee.
Cool lemonade or beer or even a cup of coffee will never taste better anywhere else!
The other unique must-do down there is to send post cards! The Post cards will bear the special seal – Mailed by Mule from bottom of Grand Canyon!
The following morning we took a stroll around the area. We visited the ruins of an Anazazi Pueblo which dates back over a thousand years – evidence that humans romanced the canyon from a long time ago. We then explored the Boat Beach – a shallow river beach where river runners stop by on their journey over the rapids. We also spent some time at the mouth of Bright Angel creek. Sitting there watching the clear waters of the stream flow into the muddy torrents of the river, listening to the roar of the rapids, with sunlight streaming over the bridges spanning the great canyon whose mighty walls arose high above – it was truly a place where tranquility and peace reigns. Very few sights can be more captivating.
To escape the wrath of the sun, we rested and played in the stream for most of the day and started our hike up after 4 pm in the afternoon. The plan worked! The hike up was not only pleasant but we were also blessed with a rare cloud cover that made our hike up to Indian Gardens (destination for our second night’s camp) one of the best parts of the whole trip!
The 4.5 mile hike to Indian Gardens begins after crossing the river over the Silver suspension bridge. The River Trail – which is a mile and a half in length runs parallel to the river and offers amazing views all along. Every bend makes you stop and catch your breath - the views have to been seen to be believed!
One of the other things that will captivate anyone who ventures into the canyon is its geology! Layer after layer – Earth’s history opens out to anyone who cares to take a peek. The oldest rocks at the bottom of the canyon are around 2 billion years old! Ever thought how it might feel to touch something that old!!??
Also dotting the whole region are plenty of fossils, or so I have read and heard – and I did try playing my hand at paleontology but ended up a cropper! Did not sight a single fossil – but I still touched something which was 2 billion years old! Beat that! J
The River Trail ends where the Pipe Creek flows down into the river. At the River Rest house the Bright Angel Trail begins its 9 mile journey up to the South Rim forming one of the most frequented trails in the canyon. We were of course hiking this stretch with a night’s break half way at Indian Gardens – and a wise move it was too! As the whole way up was pleasant and hardly testing and thoroughly enjoyable!
The 3 mile stretch up Bright Angel to Indian Gardens involved negotiating the steep switch backs of Devil’s Cork-Screw - an area where a hiker had lost his life the previous year succumbing to the brutal summer heat. He’d made the fatal mistake of challenging the sun and the desert! We were of course hiking this stretch at around 6 in the evening with a cloud cover to boot! You may read tons of literature about hiking precautions in the canyon but only experience teaches you – hiking our way down just one day earlier we were exhausted and worn out thanks to the sun and the heat. While climbing up during the cooler part of the day - in spite of heavy back packs - made it almost a walk in the park!
This stretch presented us with interesting sights – little waterfalls off the trail formed by the Pipe Creek and the Garden Creek and wild deer that we came across every once in a while and of course the majestic Canyon walls kept us company. We even came across a small cave – an alcove actually, but it did bring out the spelunker in us and armed with flashlights, we spent awhile exploring it. As the sun slowly set and dusk was falling, we came across tree cover and soon we ended the first section of our hike up at the Indian Gardens camp ground.
Dinner was followed by some difficult moments with our equipment, as gusty winds threatened to blow our tents five campsites down! Extra pegs and guy wires rescued our dwellings but the time spent on that meant we had to abandon our plan of a moon light hike to Plateau Point which was a lost cause anyway – as the moon chose to hide behind the clouds. Standing there at night, we could see the lights at the South Rim high above, a towering task lay at hand the next morning – the last leg of our hike!
I awoke at 4 am, determined to hike to Plateau Point which is a 3 mile round trip hike from the campsite to a stunning view point inside the canyon! The Trail is a flat one that steaks across a plateau that stretches out right to the edge and there one is treated to a breath-taking view of the inner gorge and the river – one of the best views of the canyon I’ve seen. After failed attempts of rousing the other members of my party, I set off alone on the trail. It was a quick hike, with no backpack and a canyon sun-rise beckoning me, I hastened on the trail passing deer and the West Tonto Trail junction on my way. The sight awaiting me was unbelievable to say the least. Standing at the edge of the cliff I could hear once more - the roar of the river down below! Sun rise was swift and the sight was as captivating as most of my exploits over the last couple of days! Both - my camera and I were satiated after drinking in the sights at Plateau Point!
I returned to find my mates breaking camp and after a hearty breakfast we set off to climb out of the canyon – the last four and a half miles! We ascended at a fair pace with mule traffic and down hill hikers impeding our progress more than the stress of the climb up. Soon we reached the three mile rest house and as traffic increased with each passing yard, we came across the one and half mile rest house. The canyon was now a different sight - one that I have been quite accustomed to seeing from the top. The trail stretched below and the view was as lovely as ever – doubt if I will ever tire of being the wide eyed tourist out there!
The last stretch was slow progress owing to the steep switch backs and the scores of hikers – most of whom were seeking a small day-hike down the trail. The heavy backpack hikers climbing out were treated with respect, and we pretty much lapped up the attention and those who paused to have a chat with us were treated with descriptive and colorful answers to queries of our trip below.
After around four hours I paused at the last bend – I could see the Kolb Studio above – the trail ended up there and the South Rim would greet me soon. I took a gulp from my last bottle of Gatorade and looked back – a dream fulfilled! I was now one of the many who’d ventured into the Great Unknown. And as I hiked those last few steps out of the canyon casting my eyes on the sight below me – I realized – I’d fallen in love with Grand Canyon…again!
I’ve seen the Grand Canyon several times from the South Rim now and ever since the first time I set my eyes on this spectacle of nature, the desire to plunge down to its bottom and explore its hidden secrets burned strong within me.
And so it came to pass, at the crack of dawn…one fine day, I took the plunge.
I’d heard about its towering canyon walls and the deathly silence broken by the roar of the river deep below and the gurgle of its creeks and streams. I’d heard about the fiery heat in the unforgiving inner canyon and the cool shade that some patches of trees offers. I’d heard about the wild life and the flora and the suspension bridges right at the bottom, the winding and tiresome trails and a thousand other bits and pieces of what until a couple of hundred years back was called the – Great Unknown!
But nothing could prepare me for the experience I had…as I spent three days in the canyon…hiking down to the bottom and coming back up. Every step and every bend of the trail had a new sight to offer!
Joining me were my two of my office buddies – Abhishek and Nitin and Nitin’s better half – Stuti.
We started off down the South Kaibab Trail which is about 7 miles in length and is the shortest trip down from the South Rim to the Colorado river.
It is however a steep trail but offers some great views of the canyon. The early start ensured we beat the sun for most of the hike – this trail has no shade what so ever nor does it have any water – which meant we had to carry enough to last all the way down.
The trail offered stunning vistas of the canyon, especially at the O’Neill butte and at Skeleton Point, but nothing can prepare you for your first sight of the inner gorge!
After about four hours of tiring hike, I caught the first sight of the river and soon I could hear its roar…and then I saw the suspension bridge way down below!
The last stretch after the Tip-Off was a steep descent and by then the sun was out in full glory too – which meant we had to take more breaks in the shade of rocks and shrubs while munching on trail bars and apples. To add to it, all of us hardly had any sleep the previous night – courtesy some poor foresight of not carrying extra sleeping bags. The ones we had did not suffice for the cold weather at the Rim and we had spent most of the night shivering without sleep!
After close to six hours we finally reached the end of the trail where a small tunnel led out to the Kaibab Suspension Bridge (also referred to as Black Bridge).
This is a bridge for both foot travelers and mules.
We crossed the bridge with the swift flowing Colorado beneath us. To the left stretched the other - Silver suspension bridge (a foot bridge) spanning the river and connecting to the River Trail and then the Bright Angel Trail.
The river - after Glen Canyon Dam was built upstream - is usually green and clear (as I’d observed on several occasions from the Rim and at Desert View). But historically the river was a raging reddish-brown torrent carrying tons of mud and silt down its tumultuous journey. In fact the original name coined by early Spanish explorers – Rio Colorado was after the color of the water. The Dams that came up in last few decades have of course changed it all. So it was indeed, a pleasant surprise to find the river - brown when we got there! We were to learn later that rains upstream over the last few days had allowed the river to show signs of its earlier glory – we just felt lucky to see it so!
After crossing over we headed up to the Bright Angel Campground. Fatigue was catching up fast owing to the long hike and lack of sleep. The campsite was laid out on one side of the Bright Angel creek in the shade of cottonwood trees and we were lucky to find a site right next to the creek! After pitching tents and cooking up some chow we slept late into the afternoon.
The evening involved a pleasant walk up to Phantom Ranch – a lodge with some cabins, dorms and a canteen that was built in early nineteen twenties. The place is half a mile from the camp ground and scores of cottonwood trees dot the whole area – a truly charming place.
We attended a Ranger program about the Canyon’s history and its first real explorer – John Wesley Powell. Later we headed to the Canteen for snacks and coffee.
Cool lemonade or beer or even a cup of coffee will never taste better anywhere else!
The other unique must-do down there is to send post cards! The Post cards will bear the special seal – Mailed by Mule from bottom of Grand Canyon!
The following morning we took a stroll around the area. We visited the ruins of an Anazazi Pueblo which dates back over a thousand years – evidence that humans romanced the canyon from a long time ago. We then explored the Boat Beach – a shallow river beach where river runners stop by on their journey over the rapids. We also spent some time at the mouth of Bright Angel creek. Sitting there watching the clear waters of the stream flow into the muddy torrents of the river, listening to the roar of the rapids, with sunlight streaming over the bridges spanning the great canyon whose mighty walls arose high above – it was truly a place where tranquility and peace reigns. Very few sights can be more captivating.
To escape the wrath of the sun, we rested and played in the stream for most of the day and started our hike up after 4 pm in the afternoon. The plan worked! The hike up was not only pleasant but we were also blessed with a rare cloud cover that made our hike up to Indian Gardens (destination for our second night’s camp) one of the best parts of the whole trip!
The 4.5 mile hike to Indian Gardens begins after crossing the river over the Silver suspension bridge. The River Trail – which is a mile and a half in length runs parallel to the river and offers amazing views all along. Every bend makes you stop and catch your breath - the views have to been seen to be believed!
One of the other things that will captivate anyone who ventures into the canyon is its geology! Layer after layer – Earth’s history opens out to anyone who cares to take a peek. The oldest rocks at the bottom of the canyon are around 2 billion years old! Ever thought how it might feel to touch something that old!!??
Also dotting the whole region are plenty of fossils, or so I have read and heard – and I did try playing my hand at paleontology but ended up a cropper! Did not sight a single fossil – but I still touched something which was 2 billion years old! Beat that! J
The River Trail ends where the Pipe Creek flows down into the river. At the River Rest house the Bright Angel Trail begins its 9 mile journey up to the South Rim forming one of the most frequented trails in the canyon. We were of course hiking this stretch with a night’s break half way at Indian Gardens – and a wise move it was too! As the whole way up was pleasant and hardly testing and thoroughly enjoyable!
The 3 mile stretch up Bright Angel to Indian Gardens involved negotiating the steep switch backs of Devil’s Cork-Screw - an area where a hiker had lost his life the previous year succumbing to the brutal summer heat. He’d made the fatal mistake of challenging the sun and the desert! We were of course hiking this stretch at around 6 in the evening with a cloud cover to boot! You may read tons of literature about hiking precautions in the canyon but only experience teaches you – hiking our way down just one day earlier we were exhausted and worn out thanks to the sun and the heat. While climbing up during the cooler part of the day - in spite of heavy back packs - made it almost a walk in the park!
This stretch presented us with interesting sights – little waterfalls off the trail formed by the Pipe Creek and the Garden Creek and wild deer that we came across every once in a while and of course the majestic Canyon walls kept us company. We even came across a small cave – an alcove actually, but it did bring out the spelunker in us and armed with flashlights, we spent awhile exploring it. As the sun slowly set and dusk was falling, we came across tree cover and soon we ended the first section of our hike up at the Indian Gardens camp ground.
Dinner was followed by some difficult moments with our equipment, as gusty winds threatened to blow our tents five campsites down! Extra pegs and guy wires rescued our dwellings but the time spent on that meant we had to abandon our plan of a moon light hike to Plateau Point which was a lost cause anyway – as the moon chose to hide behind the clouds. Standing there at night, we could see the lights at the South Rim high above, a towering task lay at hand the next morning – the last leg of our hike!
I awoke at 4 am, determined to hike to Plateau Point which is a 3 mile round trip hike from the campsite to a stunning view point inside the canyon! The Trail is a flat one that steaks across a plateau that stretches out right to the edge and there one is treated to a breath-taking view of the inner gorge and the river – one of the best views of the canyon I’ve seen. After failed attempts of rousing the other members of my party, I set off alone on the trail. It was a quick hike, with no backpack and a canyon sun-rise beckoning me, I hastened on the trail passing deer and the West Tonto Trail junction on my way. The sight awaiting me was unbelievable to say the least. Standing at the edge of the cliff I could hear once more - the roar of the river down below! Sun rise was swift and the sight was as captivating as most of my exploits over the last couple of days! Both - my camera and I were satiated after drinking in the sights at Plateau Point!
I returned to find my mates breaking camp and after a hearty breakfast we set off to climb out of the canyon – the last four and a half miles! We ascended at a fair pace with mule traffic and down hill hikers impeding our progress more than the stress of the climb up. Soon we reached the three mile rest house and as traffic increased with each passing yard, we came across the one and half mile rest house. The canyon was now a different sight - one that I have been quite accustomed to seeing from the top. The trail stretched below and the view was as lovely as ever – doubt if I will ever tire of being the wide eyed tourist out there!
The last stretch was slow progress owing to the steep switch backs and the scores of hikers – most of whom were seeking a small day-hike down the trail. The heavy backpack hikers climbing out were treated with respect, and we pretty much lapped up the attention and those who paused to have a chat with us were treated with descriptive and colorful answers to queries of our trip below.
After around four hours I paused at the last bend – I could see the Kolb Studio above – the trail ended up there and the South Rim would greet me soon. I took a gulp from my last bottle of Gatorade and looked back – a dream fulfilled! I was now one of the many who’d ventured into the Great Unknown. And as I hiked those last few steps out of the canyon casting my eyes on the sight below me – I realized – I’d fallen in love with Grand Canyon…again!
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